What the acid: glycolic acid, lactic acid, PHA and salicylic acid deep dive.
on March 02, 2026

What the acid: glycolic acid, lactic acid, PHA and salicylic acid deep dive.

My Triple Acid Body Wash and Triple Acid Body Mist are packed with acids. But what are they actually doing to your skin? Let's get into it.

Glycolic acid

Glycolic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugarcane. It's widely used in skincare because of its ability to exfoliate, promote cell turnover, and improve the overall appearance and texture of the skin.

  • Exfoliation. Glycolic acid loosens the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface of the skin, making it easier for them to slough off. This reveals smoother, brighter skin underneath.
  • Supports your skin's collagen. Regular use of glycolic acid can support your skin's collagen, the protein that helps keep skin firm and youthful-looking.
  • Improves skin texture. By removing dead skin cells and promoting cell turnover, glycolic acid helps smooth and even out skin texture. It can also help reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and rough patches.
  • Unclogs pores. Glycolic acid penetrates deep into the pores to dissolve and remove excess oil, dirt, and other impurities. This helps prevent congestion and reduce the occurrence of breakouts.
  • Brightens the complexion. Regular use can help fade dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone for a brighter, more radiant result.
  • Enhances product absorption. By exfoliating away dead skin cells, glycolic acid helps other skincare products (like moisturisers and serums) penetrate more effectively.

One thing worth knowing: glycolic acid can increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun, so daily SPF is non-negotiable when you're using it. You might notice some mild redness at first, but this usually settles as your skin adjusts.

Lactic acid

Lactic acid is also an AHA, derived from lactose in milk. It works similarly to glycolic acid but with a few key differences worth knowing about.

  • Gentler exfoliation. Lactic acid has a larger molecular size than glycolic acid, which means it exfoliates more gently. A better starting point for sensitive skin or AHA newcomers.
  • Hydrating. Lactic acid is a humectant, meaning it attracts moisture to the skin. Good news for dehydrated babes: it exfoliates and hydrates at the same time.
  • Fades hyperpigmentation. Like glycolic acid, lactic acid can help fade dark spots and uneven skin tone. Glycolic acid may go deeper due to its smaller molecular size, but the two together are the sweet spot for cell turnover.

PHA (gluconolactone)

PHA stands for polyhydroxy acid, a chemical exfoliant that works similarly to AHAs and BHAs but with some standout traits that make it worth its own section.

  • Gentle exfoliation. PHAs have larger molecular structures than AHAs and BHAs, which means they penetrate the skin more slowly and gently. A solid option for sensitive skin that reacts to other chemical exfoliants.
  • Moisturising. PHAs are humectants, so they attract and retain moisture in the skin rather than stripping it. Good for dehydrated skin types who still want the benefits of exfoliation.
  • Antioxidant properties. PHAs can help protect the skin from free radical damage caused by environmental stressors like UV radiation and pollution, which helps prevent premature ageing.
  • Anti-inflammatory. PHAs can help calm and soothe irritated or inflamed skin, making them useful for rosacea-prone or reactive skin types.
  • Strengthens the skin barrier. PHAs support the skin's natural moisture barrier, which helps prevent moisture loss and keeps the skin more resilient against environmental stressors over time.

Salicylic acid

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) derived from willow bark. Unlike AHAs, it's oil-soluble, which means it can get deep into the pores. That makes it a standout for treating congestion and breakouts.

  • Unclogs pores. Salicylic acid dissolves the oil and debris that cause congestion. It targets blackheads and whiteheads by working inside the pore, not just at the surface.
  • Exfoliates the skin. It loosens the bonds between dead skin cells to reveal smoother, clearer skin and improve overall texture.
  • Calms inflammation. Salicylic acid has anti-inflammatory properties, which can help reduce the redness, swelling, and irritation that come with breakouts and reactive skin conditions.
  • Treats and prevents acne. By targeting clogged pores, inflammation, and excess oil production, salicylic acid works on existing breakouts and helps prevent new ones from forming.
  • Fades post-acne marks. Salicylic acid promotes cell turnover, which helps fade the dark spots left behind after a breakout for a more even skin tone over time.
  • Enhances product absorption. Like other exfoliants, salicylic acid helps other skincare ingredients penetrate more effectively by clearing away dead skin cells.

Want all four working together? My Triple Acid Body Wash and Triple Acid Body Mist combine glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acid in one routine. Or grab the Acid Heroes Kit and get the full lineup, including my Glycolic Body Scrub and Smoothing AHA Body Lotion, in one hit.

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